Some eyes that look at you: Festival of the Lord of the Huaje
The traditional Las Mañanitas are sung by the mariachi in the festival of the Lord of Huaje.
By: María del Refugio Reynozo Medina
NOTE. Just as Mexican Catholics recognize many representations of “la Virgen,” they also recognize many representations of Jesus Christ. Usually these are depicted with a sculpted figure, sometimes of great antiquity and value, often dating back to the 1500s or 1600s when Spain was establishing the church here. These representations have their own names and their own celebration days, and are often credited with performing miracles on behalf of the faithful. This article refers to the celebration for “el Señor del Huaje,” a large figure of the crucified Christ made of the wood of the “huaje” or tamarind tree, which is celebrated with a festival and procession on the first Sunday in May each year.
The streets of Jocotepec are still in darkness. It is about 5:30 in the morning and the orange flowers and green foliage of the flame-red tabachine trees at the entrance of the temple look grayish.
About a hundred people are already gathered inside and outside the temple, under the leafy trees. Dances are being prepared and the brass band is playing. Steaming pots rest in their stands. Chocolate, cinnamon and tamarind atole (a hot cornflour drink) awaits the faithful who gather at the temple of the Señor del Huaje, for his feast.
The band is playing a popular dancing song, El Mono de Alambre (The Wire Monkey). The men of the band sing. The bells ring the second call for the six o’clock mass and Father Mario Fernando Sandoval Varela comes out of the temple to welcome the cargueros (the men who will be carrying the figure of the Señor del Huaje in the procession).
“How about the music,» he says. And El Mono de Alambre is interrupted by the chants of a procession.
“Long live my Christ, long live my King,” some women sing, and the band stops.
Soon the San Cristobal Band arrives and intones the traditional Las Mañanitas, followed by waltzes and pasodobles dances, which permeate the Eucharistic celebration.
At the end of the mass, a man reads a list of the various expenses of the festival: the music, the dawn ceremony, decorated candles, dances, dinner for the musicians and the castillo or fireworks tower. He names the families who will assume the expenses. Many of them are from the Nextipac neighborhood
At the exit of mass, they begin to distribute the drinks and the dancers execute their movements to the sound of the drum and the caracol, a prehispanic musical instrument like a trumpet made of shell or ceramic.
Today is expected the visit of Father Eduardo Garcia Orta who spent three years in the community of Jocotepec and still retains the affection for these lands and the veneration for the Lord of the Huaje.
Father «Lalo» as the community calls him, is on his way with a very valuable cendal, a beautifully decorated loincloth that will be wrapped around the image of Christ to be premiered by the Señor del Huaje in his feast. Some representatives of the honor guard gather and wait eagerly for its arrival. «They say that this loincloth has golden threads» a discreet and festive voice is heard. There is much excitement to see it and to welcome the priest.
Upon his arrival, Father Lalo is received with signs of affection. They congregate at the altar and everyone approaches to see the loincloth, which is bright red with gold embroidery.
To carry out the change of the loincloth, putting the new one in place of the current one, the men remain in the enclosure and the women wait outside. A woman who accompanies me in the wait says, “These are men’s duties; women have no business being there.”
Carlos Mendo is the main person in charge. For ten years, he has overseen the honor guard. It is made up of about a hundred people, mostly men and a few recently integrated women. He was questioned by some parishioners for having allowed access to women.
“God doesn’t say you don’t or you do,» he responded confidently.
Mr. Roberto Mendo, Carlos’s father, was the last person in charge and left the position to his son.
It is a great responsibility, says Carlos, because it means taking care not only of the image of a beloved Christ, but also of a piece of historical artistic value. The last restoration cost 140,000 pesos (about US$7,000), which were raised with donations from the community.
It is a difficult responsibility, but it is also a blessing. «Now I only ask for work and health,” he said.
Víctor, a member of the honor guard, shares a testimony. His wife was sick for a couple of months, having inexplicably lost the mobility of her body, during which time she remained in bed in a lot of pain. They went to several doctors and his wife’s health did not improve. One morning, she told him, “I dreamed of the Lord of the Huaje.”
In the dream, the Lord of the Huaje told her to «drink from that water,» pointing to a small puddle next to him. The woman asked to be taken to the temple with the figure of the crucified Christ. When she was in front of the altar there was some water on the floor, so she brought her lips close and implored for her health.
That day she walked out of the temple, healthy. From then on, both asked to be part of the honor guard.
On the first Sunday of May, the day denoted for this celebration, the procession is almost the last ceremony of the day. Before that, mariachi musicians coincide with the band with their blue shirts and at least five groups of dancers. Colorful plumage abounds to the beat of the drum.
There are lines of people kneeling to approach the crucified figure to fulfill a request or ask for a favor.
The route of a couple of hours is a mosaic of dancers with multicolored feathers and costumes, musicians with their polished costumes and the honor guard with their bright red shirts.
The sound of the drums announces the approach of the procession. As it passes, the figure of the crucified Christ, almost three meters high, draws sighs and tears.
In a loudspeaker, the voice of a woman prays and sings, “There are eyes that, if they look at me, make my soul tremble with love, they are such beautiful eyes…”
The Lord of the Huaje is carried on a special platform driven by a man. He advances, standing out among the crowd with his gaze towards the sky, towards the mountains, towards the faithful who sometimes look into his eyes. “Because He lives,” says a woman next to me, ecstatic with fervor.
Translated by Sandy Britton
Los comentarios están cerrados.
© 2016. Todos los derechos reservados. Semanario de la Ribera de Chapala